Diamond Grading - the 4 Cs

I have been working in the jewelry business for over a decade now. Since I was a child, I’ve always wanted to know and understand as much as possible about everything I encounter - and I now have a 4-year-old at home who is even more curious than I am, who exhausts my ability to answer the question “Why?”   

 
Last year, I had the opportunity to take GIA (Gemological Institute of America) classes in Jewelry Basics, Pearls, Color Stones, and Diamonds, and I am now certified in Pearls, Diamonds, and Diamond Grading. One of the best parts of this training was going to Jeweler’s Mutual Headquarters in Neenah, Wisconsin, to take the GIA Diamond Grading Lab Class. During the class, I viewed 150 loose diamonds under my microscope over the course of five days and learned to calibrate my eyes and brain to recognize the color and clarity grading of diamonds using the GIA’s grading system. This system was developed to help standardize and clarify evaluation and discussion of diamonds for diamond and jewelry professionals. The experience finished with a 2-Diamond grading exam where I wrote a complete assessment of two loose diamonds I had never seen before, using only the microscope and a few other tools provided for me. I received a grade of 93% and was pretty pleased with myself! 

 
Before the GIA system, industry people threw around terms such as “Golconda” and “River” to describe stones; now we have a truly clear and precise system that also leaves room for stones to be described without needlessly degrading them for not fulfilling one person’s perception of “ideal.” 

 
What I most enjoy about showing diamonds is how differently people view the characteristics of the stones. One person’s eye will catch a whisper of grey or brown in a stone and it’s out of the running for their consideration, another will see an internal characteristic shaped like a bird and find it a most charming birthmark. 

 
The GIA Color Scale begins with the letter D, because in the past grades like A, AA, AAA, and the like were used carelessly and thus lost meaning. D is the clearest and most colorless of diamond grades, also the rarest and highest priced. Most natural diamonds sold at Studio D are in the G, H, and I color grades, because that is where customers typically see the best value. A diamond in these groups may be slightly “warm,” but it will appear beautifully bright white in color compared to most other stones and most eyes. When moving into the J, K, L, and above color grades, we can more easily start seeing whispers of brown, grey, and yellow. 
   
                                                                                 

 
The GIA Clarity Scale begins at Internally Flawless. This designation is a badge of honor for diamond cutters, like a Michelin Star for chefs. A diamond with this grade may have been submitted for GIA laboratory certification seven times, being re-polished between each grading to get to this point. Most natural diamonds sold by Studio D will be in the Slightly Included category, where internal characteristics may be visible with the unaided eye (but often are not) and can help a budget go much further. 


                                                                                          


 
The GIA Cut Scale begins at Excellent, and the grade is broken down into further specifics; Symmetry and Polish, even the geometry of the facets is assessed. This is where a loose diamond either shines or falls flat. Excellent and Very Good stones will sparkle and be very lively; Good, Fair, and Poor stones will leave much to be desired, even to the naked eye. A stone that is poorly cut will simply not have a good appearance. The diamonds offered most often at Studio D are called Triple Excellent, due to their ratings for Cut, Symmetry, and Polish. 
 

                                                                       


 
Now the one everyone has a pretty good handle on: Carat, or the weight of the diamond. The larger the stone, the higher the price, and there is a sharp increase at 1.0ct, 1.5ct, 2.0ct, and so on. Often, we can help our clients stretch their budget by sourcing stones that are slightly underweight, at 1.45ct or 1.98ct. This alone can offer significant savings. 
 

There are a few other characteristics of diamonds that may have a significant impact on look and price that are not the classic 4 Cs. Stones with Fluorescence will glow under Black Lights and can appear cloudy in sunlight, or a slight amount of blue shine can improve the look of a warmer stone. There are white, opalescent diamonds that are graded exactly like all diamonds but have no internal sparkle at all, more of a mysterious glow. The “Salt & Pepper” diamonds are graded mostly as I2 or I3 (Included level 2 or level 3) because they have many internal characteristics, but the I3 stones are often unstable and could break while setting or during daily wear, while the I2 stones are usually fine for every day. 
 

Fancy colors are such fun; diamonds naturally occur in a variety of colors and the bright ones command a high price. I especially enjoy a Rose Cut Black Diamond, with its metallic reflections! 
 

I find I learn something new every day working at Studio D, and the amazing stones and jewelry pieces we see keep my internal child curious and wondering. 
 


 
Jennifer Jorgensen is Studio D’s Manager of Store Operations. She is highly experienced in the jewelry industry, and enjoys continuously learning about gems, stones, metals, and everything jewelry-related. She IS the mom of a truly adorable four-year-old. She’s also a genuinely fun person to be around – so stop by and say hello, and maybe test her knowledge - next time you’re on the Woodstock Square!